Sublime - Day 24

How do you describe a day that is filled with so many special and wonderful memories? Going over the highest point of the Camino and passing the Cruz de Ferro was always going to mark a significant milestone in our journey, and we couldn't have scripted a better day if we tried. 

Perfect weather - despite the forecast, our favourite camino buddies to share the climb and descent; a day full of laughter, camaraderie, and pure joy. We all climbed slowly to the top, trying to savour every precious moment, fully aware that after today we only have 10 more walking days and our amazing journey is going to come to an end. 

I'll let the photos tell the story. 

The perfect day begins

We walked across that land behind as far as the eye could see!

Hot chocolate and coffee stop.

The sacred orange! 

The gang at Cruz de Ferro

Cloud creeping up the valleys. 

He knocked the bastard off!

Getting my caste stamped.

Highest point picnic; wine, chips, chocolate & cherries! 

The Allies: Simon NZ, John Australia, Burt USA, Nick England 

Over the hill and the big descent.

Heading for the Hills - Day 21, 22 and 23

We had a very enjoyable and as it turned out timely rest day in Leon. Simon was laid low with a tummy upset, that I'm pleased to report is better now.  

Day 21 Leon to Villadangos Del Paramo

It's always great to get back on the road, but it took about 90 mins to clear the city and the morning traffic fumes. We chose to walk through the countryside instead of the quickest route to our destination, and finished at a tiny spot with a great bar aptly called Tio Pepe! We taxied from there to our hotel, OMG, this place had nothing to recommend it! Plonked right on the edge of the busy and loathed by pilgrims N-120 road, I can handle small and simple (not well) but this place was dirty as well. The day was saved by fun drinks and a shared meal with Burt and Cindy. 

Day 22 Astorga 

I couldn't get out of Villadangos fast enough, feeling grumpy after a bad night sleep and a 'why bother' breakfast, I needed to have a good 20 min walking meditation until my humour returned.  We both found the 26km walk to Astorga a breeze and loved walking towards the hills and out of the flat Meseta for good.  Like so many of the towns, Astorga's enormous cathedral spires tricked us to thinking we were closer than we were and the final march up onto the hillside walled village was quite an effort. We were rewarded with a beer in the main plaza with our dear friend Gerard. 

Our hotel was directly opposite the Gaudi Palace, a neo-gothic castle which is a bit Disney from the outside, but we both loved the spaces, light and stain glass interiors. Apologies for too many photos!

Day 23 Rabanal Del Camino

A 7.45am rendezvous with our friends Alissa and John to walk the 22km stretch up to Rabanal. A wonderful days walking in the light drizzly rain. It was a lovely surprise to find Nick (who has walked from Surrey) at the fun little Cowboy Bar on the way and the boys enjoyed some bloke bonding time. We all got a bit sick of the on again off again of all the wet weather gear (golfers will relate), but had such a delightful walk steadily inclining all the way to this extremely picturesque village. Met Julia the Falcon today, my cast came in very handy as a perch! Her owner just tied her to a bench, while he popped into the pub for a quick drink! It's so great being back in the mountains. 

Remembering Mum today, it would have been Jenny's 75th birthday. What a lot of life she missed out on, it feels very unfair.  It is fitting that tomorrow we walk to the Cruz de Ferro, the highest point and the most significant part of the Camino for many of the pilgrims. Everyone leaves a gift at the base of the cross, for most it is a rock from home, to represent the weight we carry and can unburden ourselves of as we move forward in our lives in a lighter way. 

Day 19 - 20 Good News and Sad Farewells

Mansilla de Los Mulas to Leon

We have arrived in the big smoke of Leon after nine days on the trot with no rest days. We left Mansilla at 7am and ventured out for our first real day of walking in the rain. Our expensive gear failed on all counts and Simon was wet through when we arrived and I was saved by the cheap plastic poncho that I through over everything in an effort to keep my cast dry.  

Yes good news, we visited the hospital and had my arm re X-rayed and got the thumbs up. My arm is healing in the right position and I can keep this cast until Santiago (I've grown attached to it since it has become my Camino credential).

Last night we farewelled Natalie, from Mt Isa, we won't see her again and I will miss her bright smile and her down to earth sense of humour. Buen Camino my friend.

Leon is a busy town of 130,000, we are treating ourselves and staying 2 nights in the beautiful Parador de San Marco, a former pilgrims hospital and monastery built in the 16th century.  The other landmark of note is surprise surprise, the cathedral - a masterpiece of gothic architecture and stained glass. It is fiesta night in town tonight, we have no idea what for, but are looking forward to a fun night with John and Alissa who have caught us up! Update: Rick and Chez, and Gerald makes up the reunion!! 

Day 18 - Sahagun to El Burgo Ranero

Camino Friends

Today everything felt good, all day. No aches, no pain just easy walking 18km along the flat stretch to El Burgo Ranero (pop 250). When this happens your mind starts to wander and today I started to think about all the amazing people I have met and the connections I have made.  

We share all on the Camino, the path, we share food, the weather, the water from a fountain, a shady spot on the grass beneath a tree, we share wine, beer, sangria, laughs, stories, our aches and pains and sometimes tears.  Each of the people I have met has given a little bit (and sometimes a lot) of themselves to me, and I have in turn, given some of me to them. No matter where these people come from (it is truely the United Nations), what they do, there is a sense of everyone being equal here. The connections are completely different than your usual social contact, the "Hola" and "Buen Camino" so quickly allow a deeper conversation, an honesty and vulnerability and a sense of trust in your fellow pilgrim, to share the heart and soul of ones own journey. It is extremely special - there is a oneness that has developed. This is the Camino.  Tonight we were so moved by a story from Manuel and Svetlana, who meet on the Camino and have left their lives in Barcelana and Bulgaria to set up 'the best paella' restaurant in this tiny spot in the middle of Spain. He sang to us, and filled us with his delicious paella, and his love for his life and his beautiful Svetlana.

So tonight I am full of gratitude, and want to thank all those friends who have shared their Camino with me; my Simon, Caz and Ronnie (Veronica) from Sydney, McKensey and Harrison USA, Hedweg and your dad from Norway, Bernard, Daniel and Giovanne from Bordeaux, Miriam from Amsterdam/Sydney, Peter from San Francisco/Switzerland, Nicky from England, Larry and Lyzette from Orlando, Mark, Margie and Carol from North Carolina, Wanda and Mike from Vancouver, Natalie Mt Isa, John and Alissa, Melbourne, Finley aka Barney Rubble from Melbourne, Cheryl (Chez) and Rick from Fish Creeks, Mary and friends from Oz, Gerard 80yrs from France, Webke and Karen Germany, Joan and David from France/USA, Mr G from Peru living in Sydney, Sigga and Axel from Iceland (my first friends from Iceland), Tony from England, Allan from England with the broken rib, Evelyn from northern France, Alexandro from Italy, Alex from Germany, Sandy from Melbourne, Fatima from Portugal, Deborah from California, Karen from New Zealand, my singing Korean friend, Citus from Netherlands, Gerry and Vicky from Florida, Mark from Wagga Wagga, Anthony from Sydney, Raoul from Cuba, Cynthia USA, Nick from England, Graham doing 19marathons, Toby from Norway, Harmony from Montreal, Elizabeth from Belgium, Maree Therese, Nicole, Jean Paul & Michelle from Belgium, Lynne from England, Laia from Netherlands, Lars from Denmark and I know I have miss some more out! 

Thank you all and I look forward to our paths crossing again someday. Buen Camino.