Heading for the Hills - Day 21, 22 and 23

We had a very enjoyable and as it turned out timely rest day in Leon. Simon was laid low with a tummy upset, that I'm pleased to report is better now.  

Day 21 Leon to Villadangos Del Paramo

It's always great to get back on the road, but it took about 90 mins to clear the city and the morning traffic fumes. We chose to walk through the countryside instead of the quickest route to our destination, and finished at a tiny spot with a great bar aptly called Tio Pepe! We taxied from there to our hotel, OMG, this place had nothing to recommend it! Plonked right on the edge of the busy and loathed by pilgrims N-120 road, I can handle small and simple (not well) but this place was dirty as well. The day was saved by fun drinks and a shared meal with Burt and Cindy. 

Day 22 Astorga 

I couldn't get out of Villadangos fast enough, feeling grumpy after a bad night sleep and a 'why bother' breakfast, I needed to have a good 20 min walking meditation until my humour returned.  We both found the 26km walk to Astorga a breeze and loved walking towards the hills and out of the flat Meseta for good.  Like so many of the towns, Astorga's enormous cathedral spires tricked us to thinking we were closer than we were and the final march up onto the hillside walled village was quite an effort. We were rewarded with a beer in the main plaza with our dear friend Gerard. 

Our hotel was directly opposite the Gaudi Palace, a neo-gothic castle which is a bit Disney from the outside, but we both loved the spaces, light and stain glass interiors. Apologies for too many photos!

Day 23 Rabanal Del Camino

A 7.45am rendezvous with our friends Alissa and John to walk the 22km stretch up to Rabanal. A wonderful days walking in the light drizzly rain. It was a lovely surprise to find Nick (who has walked from Surrey) at the fun little Cowboy Bar on the way and the boys enjoyed some bloke bonding time. We all got a bit sick of the on again off again of all the wet weather gear (golfers will relate), but had such a delightful walk steadily inclining all the way to this extremely picturesque village. Met Julia the Falcon today, my cast came in very handy as a perch! Her owner just tied her to a bench, while he popped into the pub for a quick drink! It's so great being back in the mountains. 

Remembering Mum today, it would have been Jenny's 75th birthday. What a lot of life she missed out on, it feels very unfair.  It is fitting that tomorrow we walk to the Cruz de Ferro, the highest point and the most significant part of the Camino for many of the pilgrims. Everyone leaves a gift at the base of the cross, for most it is a rock from home, to represent the weight we carry and can unburden ourselves of as we move forward in our lives in a lighter way.