Day 34 - The Last Post - Santiago de Compostela

We began this journey almost a year a go and turned an idea, into a dream, then into a reality. Trying to put into words what this trip means to us both is not easy. But it rates as one of the most significant and meaningful events in both of our lives, having kids excluded!

The demands on the physical body cannot be underestimated, we have been constantly reminded to listen and take heed of the messages it sends to us, to slow down, to rest, tend, take care and give it what it needs to heal itself. 

Emotionally, the natural highs from being in nature and connecting with others was enough but last night, at the end of our journey some of the life lessons became clear to me (it gets a bit heavy from now on - be prepared)! So here goes:

My Camino was learning to leave the past behind. There is no past - only the present, so let it go!

It was about forgiving me for carting the past with me, making it shape my present and future and clinging onto pain and certain self limiting beliefs. 

It is about forgiving others - how could I  never really fully understand their pain/journey? 

It was about living completely in the now - with truth, trust and the knowledge that the universe/sacred source will supply all that I need. 

It was about treating yourself and others like the innocent, pure child we were all born to be.

It is about not judging others on how you find them! Treat them first with love and let that love reflect back like a mirror. 

For me the holy grail is not a challis but the sacred space within it. The same is true of the churchs we have visited - it's not the mind blowing, sky soaring cathedrals with the obscene riches and gold ornateness that inspires, but the simple plain stone structures that house the sacred space that makes it easier to contemplate and get in touch with one's own source that we were moved by. 

Our bodies are not perfect but they are awesome, mine just walked across all of Spain and I still have cellulite? Go figure! 

They hold our sacred space, our soul, so we need to stop judging and comparing them with some unobtainable ideal of perfection and just love them like we would a child.  Our job today is to supply our bodies with the best we can - to love, nourish,  care and protect them.

And lastly, remember love is a verb. When we practise it, then the feeling of love or emotional love follows, not the other way around! 

Buen Camino! 

Some vital statistics:

Started walking from St Jean Pied de Port, France on 18 May 2015.

Arrived Santiago de Compostela, Spain today, 27 June 2015.

We walked approximately 830km in 34 walking days with 7 rest days.

Over the 6 weeks, 4 pilgrims died - 2 heart attacks, one run over while walking,  and one found dead in her sleep. 

Our special Camino family was drawn together from Australia, USA, England, Netherlands, France, Canada, Ireland and our wonderful Spanish hosts. Gracias to you all.  XXS Adiós.

5.50am start - where's a selfie stick when you need one!

Walking in the forest, romantic and spooky all at the same time.

Simon and Onno on this misty morning.

The happy star pilgrim - 2 km out.

Getting closer!

Sweat and Tears! We made it!

Old friends to greet us. Thank you for waiting Gerard! XXX

Lizette, Natalie and Larry - safe travels home. 

My true credential!

Onno divorces his poles!

Parador prize! Thank you Simon xxxx

Penultimate Day

Huge sense of anticipation has washed over us both as we booked into our last stop of O Pedrouzo. Nearly all of me wanted to keep on going, but 20km is 20km! As Simon commented it is a bit like waiting to give birth - those of us still walking are in our our final stages of labour and all our friends who have finished have forgotten the pain and are full of elation and celebrating having been delivered safely into Santiago. Hoping to see some of your smiling faces tomorrow on our arrival (hopefully around 10am). 

Scarecrow cricket match

Pilgrim's nectar!

Love all the vegetable gardens. 

Walking in the woods

Day 32 - Palas de Rei to Arzua.

Our earliest start to date, knowing that we had a 30km walk and a hot day ahead I was keen to get going. I love walking in the cool crisp air of the morning, it was so refreshing after the 100% humidity of last night's hotel. 

Nothing is by chance on the Camino, so it was destined that we meet up with our friend Onno and his legend of a friend Rafa from Spain. Rafa is a natural healer who treats blisters, sore muscles and weary souls with his practical knowledge, infectious smile and great sense of humour. 

We watched Onno paint a portrait of Rafa as we all enjoyed our beers after a long days walk. A special moment as two Camino friends bonded over art rather than blisters! 

Morning mist.

BE the change!!

Church of Santa Maria

50 km to go!!!!!

Boys on the bridge. 

Let those feet breath!

Rafa with his Onno original! 

Day 31 - 750km down 70km to go!!

Hard for us to think we have only 3 more days of walking. A 30km day tomorrow, then two around 20kms to finish. I'm tired and struggling to put into words what I feel about it all coming to an end, part of me would love to keep on walking, but we are feeling it and thinking about home sweet home. 

Walking through the clouds we were looking down on a couple of days ago. 

Kitch happens everywhere!

Casa Labrador

Check out the horns!

See the structure on the right. Every house seems to have one. Simon thought they must be for dead bodies - turns out they are the traditional food safes.  

Day 30 - Giving and Recieving

Another early start this morning, and everyone else had the same idea! We were soon part of a pilgrims' caravan leaving Sarria. Families, school groups, tour groups, young, and old all together. We passed a group of young women, half a dozen of them young nuns, walking in simple navy robes. I had seen them last night walking to and from the convent and was thinking about the choices that they had made for themselves. 

Within about an hour of walking we had fallen into step with Onno from Amsterdam, then a little further on, Catriona and Mark from Ireland. Chatting easily, sharing stories we chewed up the 24 kms effortlessly and arrived in Portomarin grateful for having had their company. After sharing more than a few beers they decided to continue on and we headed for our hotel. If we knew how large our suite was going to be (larger than some Auckland apartments) we would have invited the others to stay here with room to spare!

Simon has been giving away little golden kiwi pins to the some of the pilgrims we have met (mainly young women - bless him) and today I gave away my first kiwi. I was intrigued by the young nuns and had the opportunity to talk to one, her name was Sister Sarah! She would have been Sophie's age, from Ecuador and part of a group from all over South America and Spain - a kind of 'nun camp' all walking the Camino. We had a lovely talk together with the help of another pilgrim who spoke both languages and afterwards I gave her a little kiwi. She was so surprised that her eyes welled up at my tiny gift and then she planted in my hands her well worn wooden rosary. I shook my head and said I wanted nothing in return, but she was adamant that I accept this gift from her and we hugged and exchanged kisses. I felt uncomfortable, but walking away I was overwhelmed by a sense of what it was to receive - it was a special Camino moment and I will cherish this generous gift from one who has chosen a life so hard for us to understand. 

Running with the cows - no joke after I took this photo they turned around and 2 ran straight at me! SCARY.

Simon and Onno

100 km way marker to Santiago. 

Stunning woods

Pillar of poles. First beer stop.

Reaching Portomarin, note the dam behind. 

Mark, Catriona and Simon outside the church that was resited here stone by stone, when the original village was intentionally flooded by a dam.

Made ourselves at home. 

The sitting room. Simon's off enjoying the pool!

Day 29 and Rest Day

The fun begins! We arrived in Sarria late morning yesterday and immediately noticed a change; more pilgrims, the pilgrims menus are smaller and only come with a glass of wine (instead of a bottle)! From now on this is where the all the Caminos converge, and those just wanting to gain their Compostela by walking 100kms begin.

Surprising after all the interesting and pretty towns and villages we have been to, this doesn't quite measure up!

Morning has broken. 

Walking down to the clouds. 

New friends to talk and walk with. 

Walking through the the mist. 

Rubbish disposal system in northern Spain. No household collection; in the towns they have a central underground vacuum system that recycles at the point of drop off and in the villages, central bins that are emptied daily. It seems to work. 

Trip to the supermercado for supplies - no we didn't get on of these!!